Thursday, October 8, 2009

"SUMMER IN THE CITY"


Okay, okay. It's not technically summer - like we have anything to go by down here. We've been known to check the calendar to confirm what year it is. But "Summer in the City" is the song title that best conjures up the Saturday morning hustle and bustle of Grenada's capital city. The lyrics are in my head as I put this blog entry together. You're lucky you can't hear me humming.

About 35,000 people, roughly one third of the island population, live in and around St.George’s. In 2004, Hurricane Ivan damaged or destroyed 90% of the buildings on the island. The rebuilding and regrowth is amazing, although Grenadians are quick to point out that there is still much to be done.
St. George’s is built around a horseshoe-shaped
commercial harbour called The Carenage.
This waterfront area is lined with businesses, shops and restaurants.
The local fishing fleet ties up here in The Carenage……

…… and it’s not unusual to be find fresh fillets for sale – truly fresh catch of the day.

   This is looking west across the harbour toward Fort George up on the hill.
Between the grey and red groups of office buildings at waterside, there’s a road that veers left and then right through a tunnel cut through the lower hillside.

The Sendall Tunnel was considered an engineering marvel
when it was built in 1894.
It joins The Carenage to the Esplanade
on the west side of downtown St. George’s.
Once through the tunnel, our bus travels
along the Esplanade to the city terminal.
All the local buses come through this terminus,
so you can transfer to any bus right here.

Just across the street, looking left, you can’t miss the KFC sign, but the locals seem to ignore it. Just one more reason to like the Grenadians.
The KFC chain is on many of the bigger island cities down here,
but we have yet to see any golden arches. Hallelujah.
Oh man!?!. Geoff tells me we saw the McD thing in St. Martin.
Selective memory rules.

Then we head up the first cross street, and 'up' is the operative word.
The downtown core of St. George’s is built within an old volcano crater, making for some steep ups and downs and some strenuous walking.

The next street to the right takes us to the crowded market in the centre of the city.
You’ll have to use your imagination to hear St. George’s market.
In addition to the music that blares from every stall and every storefront, and echoes from every vehicle, horns are honking continuously. A tour guide recently told us that 95% of the honking is just to say hello to a friend. The other 5% means, “Good morning. Get out of the way. Please."
And there are loud voices everywhere – vendors, each with the sweetest mangoes, the bunchiest bananas, the spiciest spices. "Hello my lovely. Buy from me, I have the best."
You can get just about everything you need here at the market.
The expected local produce ……
….. the unrefrigerated eggs ……
…… and live crabs.
This young fellow was using twine to tie the claws. The crabs were moving pretty slowly though, if at all.

And wow!!! Hot boys!
Oh wait. It’s only a fast food truck.

We also found the unexpected for sale.
With a computer, a loaded hard drive, and empty DVDs, this entreprenuer has set up shop. Name your title – it’s yours for $20EC. That’s just over seven US dollars.

Right across from the central open-air market is a big North American-style grocery store, an obvious example of the contrasts in the city.

And in the next block ……
…… is the Scotiabank on Halifax Street - a little 'connection moment' for our Canadian friends and family. The incline taking you up Halifax Street gets steeper than it looks. At the top of the hill……
…… Halifax Street becomes Young Street. When we took this picture, we didn’t really see the dirt and graffiti. St. George’s is like any big city, I guess, the good, the bad, and the ugly.
Continue down Young Street and you end up back at The Carenage.

We’re signing off with a few more pictures of city scenes that caught our eye, ending with a common sight in any city.












Friday, October 2, 2009

FLASHBACK - "WHEN YOU'RE SMILING"


When we look through the many pictures we’ve taken over the last year, there are some that make us smile every time and for very different reasons. For fellow cruisers and boaters, we've included a reference to the varied makes and lengths of boats making this trek.

Here are some of our favourite pictures, with their stories, in no particular order.

Crossing the Gulf Stream from Florida to the Bahamas is a big deal for North American cruisers. The passage isn’t necessarily long – about 7-8 hours for most sail boats under reasonable conditions – but the Gulf Stream can get nasty if the winds are working against the 3-4 knot current. Cruisers choose their time carefully. Sometimes the weather gods lie and you experience worse conditions than advertised. When we crossed on December 20th, 2008, we lucked out and the passage couldn’t have been smoother. Literally. No wind and no sea conditions. We had to motor, but the ocean was flat, flat, flat. We left a gentle wake for miles behind us. This picture definitely makes me smile.

Since no one has figured out how to tax the wind yet, we always prefer to sail, but we’ll take trawler sea conditions every time.

Norman’s Cay at the north end of the Exuma chain in the Bahamas is a wonderful place for so many reasons. The anchorage is beautiful. Just look at the water colours.

And it’s a wonderful place to catch up with friends. This is Frank and Lisa from ‘Sweet Sensation’, a Hughes 40 Custom, and Ernie and Marguerite from ‘Elysium VI’, a Whitby 42, arriving at ‘Beach House’.


And here are Bob and Sally from ‘Endaxi’, a Little Harbour 38, and Dave and Carol from ‘Passport’, a Gozzard 36. It was a fairly wet and bumpy ride that day but everyone braved the elements to come to 'Beach House' for happy hour. It was a real treat to get this group together. These cruisers have known each other for years.

Across Norman’s Cay, past the abandoned drug lord houses, is one of Jimmy Buffett’s top ten beach bars – MacDuff’s. The walk to get there is dry and dusty, with only one main thoroughfare to cross -

- with unusual traffic. There’s no crosswalk here – don’t bother putting your arm out.

Once you're safely across the tarmac, you'll find the entrance to the resort and bar, where there’s always a good time waiting. This is the internet table at MacDuffs –

- “free internet” with $6 dollar beers and $10 dollar glasses of wine. US dollars!!! This group includes the crews from the Canadian boat, ‘Northern Rebel’, a Pearson 40, and the Aussie boat, ‘Biscayne Bay’, an Irwin 52. Not a serious bone in any body here.

We had a kids' movie day aboard ‘Beach House’ while anchored off Williams Cay in the Bahamas. We invited the younger crew members from ‘Biscayne Bay’ and ‘Northern Rebel’ and they selected ‘Shrek’ to watch, to my delight. I’d never actually seen it all the way through and probably enjoyed it even more than they did.
Anastasia and I had our side of the boat ……


…… and Jake and Logan had theirs. We fed them popcorn and then chocolate cake with chocolate sauce. Fill them up with salt and sugar then send them home to their parents – what any good “grandparent” would do. It’s in the job description. Who are we to argue?

In St. Martin, we took the bus to Philipsburg for the local carnival parade – a long but excellent parade where the captain got into the act.

Geoff ducked under the flimsy barrier and cosied up to this smiling dance queen. She was great, posing and enjoying the moment almost as much as we did.

Meet Ray and Genna from ‘Nighthawk’, a 38-foot custom yawl. We have lots of pictures of ‘the kids’, as we call them, but this one is our favourite.

We were touring St. Lucia with a dozen other cruisers. This stop offered a fresh water ‘shower’ under the falls. No wonder they’re happy.

And the two best meals we’ve had in this last year were hosted by Ray and Genna on ‘Nighthawk’. These guys can fish and these guys can cook. Both meals were black fin tuna. The first time, Ray wrapped good-sized tuna filets in bacon and barbequed them. It tasted like the tenderest of red meat – but better. I think I brought something – whatever - can’t remember past the tuna memory. And I’m sure there was salad and dessert. But man – the tuna.
 
And here’s Ray preparing the second black fin feast on ‘Nighthawk’ in the Tobago Keys.

Genna had caught the tuna the day before, a smaller one, but they offered to share it with us. We said yes before they'd finished asking. Ray dipped the slices in a sesame oil concoction and seared them in a hot frying pan. Just the memory makes me smile. Maybe even drool a bit. Geoff and I really have to learn to fish. Hmm ...... or just head to the western Caribbean with Ray and Genna?

The captain likes to take pictures as people arrive at ‘Beach House’ for happy hour – you saw a couple of those arrival shots in the Bahamas pix earlier in this blog entry. He’s captured some great reactions. This is Carol and Gary, in St. Martin, arriving from ‘Goin’ South’, a Beneteau 47.

Carol almost fell over and out when she saw the camera.

And check out this picture of Gary and Carol.

Busted. Geoff and I had been out in the hot, hot, hot sun, watching the final Carnival parade at streetside in St. George's, Grenada. As the parade ended, we headed inside for a cold drink. There we find our friends from ‘Goin’ South’ – watching the parade from the air-conditioned bar.

The Lambi Queen Restaurant in Tyrrel Bay, Carriacou, had a steel band on Friday nights. Good, loud music in a tiny venue. You could almost taste the sound.


That’s Jim from ‘Merengue’, an Island Packet 27, trying to get a better look at the band, becoming entertainment himself. On the right is Jim’s wife Wendy, with Anne behind her from ‘Fine Line’, a St. Francis 44 catamaran. Anne’s husband Steve is just out of sight beyond Anne. We had a great meal with a huge serving of laughs on the side – no extra charge.

This is Barry from Australia, who was visiting fellow Aussies, Trish and Robert, on ‘Bristol Rose’, a Shannon 43. The three were part of a group who’d come to ‘Beach House’ in Ile de Saintes for a long, lovely happy hour.

It came out in conversation that Barry played the piano. I pulled out our tiny roll-up electric piano and Barry made this little toy instrument sing. He may not be smiling as he concentrates……


…… but take a look at Jack from ‘Anthem’, a Cabo Rico 38, enjoying the music.

This is Roy, our Kiwi friend from ‘Bold Endeavour’, a sister ship to ours. We were at the Tyrrel Bay Yacht Club for a fund-raising auction – part of Carriacou Race Week.

It was another sweltering hot day and Roy was airing his chest under a very fetching parasol. ‘Gutsy’ man, wouldn't you say?

Here’s another shot of Roy with his lovely wife, Doon, aboard ‘Beach House’ for happy hour in Prickly Bay, Grenada.

She’s enjoying a romantic pose for the picture – Roy is reaching for munchies. They’re a great couple. By the way, that's Sim from 'Aliana', a UK-flagged Corbin 39, in the background.

In Bequia, a group of us dinghied to a local beach bar for lunch. Geoff became our entertainment that afternoon.

That’s Jacqui and Dave, Brit newlyweds on an Amiel 50, ‘Jackster’, enjoying Geoff’s success at making four beer bottles balance.


Everyone has left the table, watching from a safe distance, except Ray from ‘Nighthawk’, as Geoff makes it six bottles. Clearly a man of many, many talents.
 
And coming full circle and back to the Bahamas, here we are with Pete on his CSY44, ‘Grace’, in Marsh Harbour, being silly for the camera. 

There’s a backstory to this pose. We met Pete in 2003 in the Bahamas and had some great times with him and his Dad, and with Terry, Kim and Brynne on ‘Fair’n’Sea’, a Nauticat 38. At Allen’s Cay in the Exumas ......

...... we dinghied over to the beach to feed the iguanas and did the photo op thing, sitting on one of the landed dinghies, legs up and arms waving. Don't we look six years younger?

And meet Bill Stanley, the friend of Pete’s who originated the 'silly pose'. He clearly has a talent for knowing what makes really great pictures. Being goofy does bring out the best smiles.                                                           We love the silly pose idea and thank him for the inspiration behind the Allen’s Cay photo above - one of our favourite pictures of all time.                                     
Odd though, that Bill is just standing here in this photo. Killer smile though. We look forward to meeting you some day, Bill!

And we'll sign off with one last picture of us.

To paraphrase Bob Newhart, “All we can say about life is - Oh God, enjoy it!” Keep smiling everyone!!!